One moment you're playing with your toy in the surf, imaginary rescuing it from drowning, just to cruelly throw it back and rescue it again. Suddenly you hear a rumbling sound approach and you realize you lowered your guard, carried away by all the fun you're having.
You also remember when you look at that tsunami in eye-height how you really don't like to get wet above your ankles.
A surge of adrenaline boosts your instincts in a last attempt to outrun this wave of wetness.
Back on shore you shake it off, both tension and water. That was a whole lot more than you can cope. But at least you kept your back dry.
And then you do it all over again.
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